Hike Among Waterfalls at Matthiessen State Park

Find a canyon with waterfalls, cascades, and pools combine to give delight to hikers at Matthiessen State Park near Oglesby, Il.

History of Matthiessen State Park

Frederick William Matthiessen purchased the land at the end of the 19th century to develop it into a privately-owned park. About 50 employees constructed trails, bridges stairways, and dams. After his death, the park was donated to the State of Illinois.

Geological Formation

The Upper Dell begins at Matthiessen Lake and continues to Cascade Falls, where the canyon drops 45 feet and the Lower Dells begins. The canyon formed by water erosion is about one mile long.

As groundwater seeps out along the canyon walls, the minerals that are carried contribute to the coloring of the rocks.

Map of the area from the brochure
Map of the area from the brochure

OUR TIME AT MATTHIESSEN STATE PARK

We started the hike from a secondary parking lot in the back of a golf course on the north side of the park. This is a small lot with limited parking so I would recommend going to the main lot first before going to this parking area.

The map at the trailhead
The map at the trailhead at Matthiessen State Park

Upper Dells

We hiked about 1.2 miles total going from the Lake Shelter down in the Upper Dells to Cascade Falls and back.

The pool at the start of the trail
The pool at the start of the trail

First, we headed down some stairs to the dells and walked by a large pool.

Stepping-stones
Stepping-stones

Then headed over some stepping-stones.

Rock shelf walk out of the water
Rock shelf walk out of the water

David helped Andrew up onto a rock shelf that kept him out of the water.

Andrew and I at the waterfall
Andrew and I at the waterfall

Then we came to Matthiessen Lake Falls. A bridge was high above crossing in front of the falls. (Bridge shown on as the blog featured photo.)

Giant's Bathtub
Giant’s Bathtub

Next, we headed back through the dells and by the Giant’s Bathtub.

We were heading to Cascade Falls through the lower trail in the dells.

Small falls
Small falls

Here we walked by small waterfalls on the way. The first was wide with a pool.

Tiered waterfall
Tiered waterfall

The next was in a tier flowing into a round pool.

Tree rooted into the canyon.
Tree rooted into the canyon.

We passed by large roots of a tree well anchored in the rock.

Andrew stopped for a moment as we went into more of a rocky area.

Rock shelf with a small cave
Rock shelf with a small cave

Here he found a small cave and rock shelf.

Small dam
Small dam

Then we came to a small dam with water shooting out of it.

Stairs and stepping stones out of the canyon
Stairs and stepping stones out of the canyon

Next to it were stairs going up with stepping stones in front of it.

Small waterfall over slick rock
Small waterfall over slick rock

Nearby was a small waterfall flowing over slick rock.

Lower Dells below
Lower Dells below

Finally, we came to the bridge over Cascade Falls. We walked up above these falls looking down at the Lower Dells far below.

Above the dells on the way back
Above the dells on the way back

Heading back, we took the bluff top trail now everything we had walked by was far below. We didn’t have time to do the Lower Dells.

Lower Dells Hike

David and I went to the Lower Dells of the park a while back.

Reconstructed fortification
Reconstructed fortification

Near the main parking lot is a recreation of a log fort designed to show French fortifications built in the Midwest during the 1600s and early 1700s.

Next, we went down some steps and then crossed the bridge above Cascade Falls where we had ended our most recent walk.

Steps and a bridge
Steps and a bridge

Then we headed to the left high above the Lower Dells. We walked towards a long series of steps to the left and then crossed a cement bridge and then left down more steps.

A tree grows in the canyon
A tree grows in the canyon

Now we went at first along the bluff before it enters the stream using stone steps.

Way below a bridge we crossed earlier
Way below a bridge we crossed earlier
Looking small in the canyon.
Looking small in the canyon.
The falls only drips into the pool of water on this day.
The falls only drip into the pool of water on this day.

We walked into the canyon until it dead-ended at a huge bowl with Cascade Falls. When we were here last it was only trickling down.

Small caves
Small caves

Around it is shelters and caves.

Wooden steps back up
Wooden steps back up

Next, we retraced our steps to the cement staircase and back up. This time after some wooden steps we went left and followed the trail back near the fort.

Looking down at the people below in the pool of water at Lower Dells
Looking down at the people below in the pool of water at Lower Dells

Final Thoughts

Doing both trails together is about three miles of hiking with a lot of up and down. So, this is a tough hike. We did this on two separate trips so made this a lot easier.

The Lower Dells are muddier than the Upper Dells which has more of a stony surface.

 If you want more canyon time when you are visiting Starved Rock State Park then is definitely a nearby park to check out!

Word of Warning

Matthiessen Dells area and Vermillion River Area typically shut down on weekends from May through October when they have reached full capacity (parking lots are full) around 10 a.m. and will not reopen again until 3 p.m. Also, roads and trails can close due to flooding, check the state park website for up-to-date closure information.

DETAILS:

Drive to Main Parking Lot: Take Interstate 55 out of St. Louis. In Blooming-Normal take exit 164 for Interstate 39 north. Then take exit 48 and make a right onto Ray Richardson Road, which becomes North 2101st Road then make a left onto Illinois Highway 178. Make a left onto North 25th Road that leads to the park.

The North Parking Lot is reached by making a left onto Illinois Highway 71 then another left onto Deer Park Lane and taking it until it ends.

Hours: 7 a.m. – 8:30 p.m. daily

Address: 2500 IL-178, Oglesby, IL 61348

Andrew in front of the Rootbeer Stand
Andrew in front of the Rootbeer Stand

Dinner: The Rootbeer Stand

We stopped at The Rootbeer Stand in Oglesby, Il., and had root beer floats, burgers, chili dogs, fries, fried mushrooms, and for dessert ice cream cones. You can eat inside, by carhop or at a picnic table.

Hours: 10 a.m. – 9 p.m., Tuesday – Sunday, Closed Mondays

Address: 225 N Columbia Ave, Oglesby, IL 61348

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