See the largest underground chamber in North America, at almost 4,000 feet long, and watch thousands of bats leave the cave at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico.
The caverns are located in southeastern New Mexico between El Paso, Texas, and Midland-Odessa, Texas. It is 20 miles outside of Carlsbad, New Mexico, where many nearby hotels are located.
My family and I visited three national parks in west Texas and southern New Mexico: Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Guadalupe Mountains National Park (just a short stop), and White Sands National Park.
FIRST DAY
After checking into the hotel in Carlsbad, N.M., we went for a short hike to check out the canyon, then went to watch thousands of bats leave their home in the caverns for the evening. We would check out the caverns the next day since we arrived too late to do the cave tour today. You have to create a reservation to do the cave, and the last time you can go down into it for the day is at 2:30 p.m.
WALNUT CANYON NATURE TRAIL
Take a short hike through native canyon plants, ending at a rock shelter that was used by Native Americans.
The trail is about 3.8 miles from White City in the national park. This is a 0.2-mile out-and-back hike on a partially paved surface with 12 feet of elevation gain.
The short hike is marked as Rock Shelter on the National Geographic Carlsbad Caverns National Park map.
Parking is a pull-off area, and from there, you will come to a sign in front of the stairs. The information sign gives you an overview of the plants that call the canyon home.
Along the path, you will come to signs that point out the native plants. One such plant is the skeleton leaf goldeneye that has daisy-like blossoms in the spring.
At 0.1 miles, I came to the rock shelter. I stepped into it, and it does provide some cover from the elements.
Then I turned around to head back. I spotted information on the sotol plant, which sends up a tall flowering stalk that can reach up to 12 feet to dispense and collect pollen with the wind.
Final Thoughts
This is a short out-and-back hike and easy to do with a kid. The rock shelter was cool to check out before heading for the cave.
MORE TRAILS
You can find more trails listed on the website, along with information on some that are closed.
WATCHING THE BATS LEAVE THE CAVE
After doing the short hike, we headed to the visitor center. In the visitor center, you will find a store, restrooms, visitor information, and a restaurant.
Signs point to the path from the visitor center to the Bat Flight Program, which is also the Natural Entrance to Carlsbad Caverns.
The program starts at sundown, which changes throughout the summer. Check when sunset is, or call the national park for that day’s time.
Birds
When I sat down in the amphitheater, I first noticed birds flying around. These birds are canyon wrens that nest and feed in the narrow rock crevices. They are small brown birds with long, thin bills.
Another bird here is the cave swallow, which also hunts insects much like the bats. They are also active during the day. They migrate south just like the bats.
Bat Time
Nearer the time of the start of the bat flight, a park ranger comes out and talks about the bats. She explained that the bats are quite smart and have learned that they can exit the cave in a circular pattern, which uses the least energy. These are the only bats that do this.
After she spoke for a while, she got a notice from another ranger that the bats were starting to come up. They are settled in an area that is not visited by tourists.
We are supposed to be quiet and not move much, so the bats keep coming to this location. Also, you can take photos or videos while they leave, since this also disturbs the bats.
It was an amazing sight to suddenly see the sky filled with bats flying out. They go mostly to the side of the amphitheater so it doesn’t feel like they are coming out on top of you. Some did come high above the amphitheater.
It is hard to describe, but it was probably my favorite part of the trip. It was so different from anything I had seen before. After they all left, we all could leave.
Take a moment after you leave to look out. You can see the lights of Carlsbad, N.M., and White City below you. It is pretty up here as the day goes into night.
Additional Information
The program goes from April to October; the bats migrate in the winter. No reservations are needed; the program occurs every evening during this time. Programs may be canceled due to lightning. The program’s start time changes as the summer progresses and sunset times shift.
Also, remember to protect the bats; electronic devices are not allowed at the Bat Flight Program and the surrounding area. Electronic devices include cameras of any kind, laptop computers, cell phones, iPads, iPods, tablets, and MP3 players.
Return to the cave— The daily pre-dawn return of the bats is different from the evening exit flights, but is just as impressive. Early risers (approx. 4-6 a.m.) can see the bats as they re-enter the cavern with spectacular dives from heights of hundreds of feet.
HOTEL STAY
We stayed at the Hyatt House Hotel in Carlsbad, on the south side of town, closer to the caverns. The hotel has a pool, and the stay includes breakfast.
Address: 4019 National Parks Hwy, Carlsbad, NM 88220
SECOND DAY: CAVE TOUR
Our appointed time was 9:30 a.m. so we headed out in the morning. You check-in at the visitor center where you present you present your day or national park yearly pass and show your reservation. You also need an entry ticket which is handled at a seperate register near the elevator. I did not realize this at first and had to leave the line for the elevator to go to the line to get the entry ticket.
There are two ways to enter the cave:
Natural Entrance
It is a steep 1.25-mile, self-guided route down to the Big Room, through the Natural Entrance, where the boat program is located. It takes about an hour to complete. The trail descends 750 feet. It is very steep and strenuous for some visitors, so it is not recommended for those with heart, breathing, or walking difficulties.
You have the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of early explorers as you see formations like Devil’s Spring, the Whale’s Mouth, and Iceberg Rock.
We did not do this route through the cave since we really wanted to explore the Big Room and we didn’t have the time to do this and the Natural Entrance section.
Big Room Trail
The Big Room is the largest single cave chamber in North America by volume. This 1.25 mile (2 km) trail is relatively flat and will take about 1.5 hours (on average) to walk it.
Actor and comedian Will Rogers called the cavern, “The Grand Canyon with a roof over it.” You will be rewarded with spectacular views, cave formations of all shapes and sizes, and a rope ladder used by explorers in 1924.
If you are seeking a shorter experience, the Big Room has a shortcut which reduces the walking distance to about 0.6 miles (1 km). The hiking time is about 45 minutes.
You can directly reach the Big Room by taking the elevator located inside the visitor center.
OUR TIME HERE
We explored the cave by taking the elevator down to the Big Room.
Follow the signs to help you find your way.
Lights throughout the cave help to highlight formations.
One such place was Fairyland with popcorn-covered stalagmites.
Another formation was the Temple of the Sun— made up of columns, stalagmites, and stalactites.
A ladder made with wire and a stick can be seen. Built by Dr. Willis T. Lee in 1924.
Then you come to the Bottomless Pit, which drops down 140 feet.
Then we came to where you can cut the walk in half, but I wanted to see it all.
Next, I came to the Silent Bell, which is the Crystal Spring Dome, the largest active stalagmite in the cavern.
Another cool feature is the Rock of Ages.
I loved the Dolls Theater with its current, like soda straw columns.
Then finally, we came to the exit sign. Also, the elevator is near the restrooms.
Final Thoughts
I enjoyed seeing all the rock formations. It was an interesting walk with lots of different cave formations to see. It is worth trying to see the whole Big Room if you can. If you tire out, taking the shortcut at least gives you a good number of formations to see.
CAVE FORMATION
Between four and six million years ago, hydrogen-sulfide-rich (H2S) waters began to migrate through fractures and faults in the Capitan limestone.
This water mixes with rainwater moving downward from the surface. When the two waters mixed, the H2S reacted with the oxygen in the rainwater, forming sulfuric acid (H2SO4).
The acid dissolved the limestone along fractures and folds in the rock, forming Carlsbad Cavern.
SHORT HISTORY
Carlsbad Cavern is one of over 300 limestone caves in a fossil reef laid down by an inland sea about 265 million years ago.
Twelve to fourteen thousand years ago, American Indians lived in the Guadalupe Mountains. Some of their cooking ring sites and pictographs have been found within the park’s present-day boundaries.
The caverns were first designated as a National Monument in 1923 by President Calvin Coolidge and later established as a National Park on May 14, 1930.
DETAILS:
Admission
Standard Pass: $ 15 for all visitors over the age of 16 OR American the Beautiful Pass – Free – $250 for non-residents. Check the website for more information.
Also, you need a Reservation and Timed Entry. A timed-entry reservation must be purchased to access Carlsbad Caverns. In addition, an entry pass must be purchased at the visitor center—I made the mistake of not realizing this when I arrived and had to go back to get one.
Time-entry reservations ensure a more enjoyable experience and help protect the cave formations. These can be bought online or by calling 877-444-6777.
Hours
Visitor Center: 8 a.m. – 5 p.m., Daily;
Cavern Entry: 9:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.; Last Cavern Entry – 2:15 p.m.
Last Elevator Out: 4:45 p.m.
You will arrive at your Timed Entry time to complete the self-guided cave tour. Grounds are open 24 hours, since camping is allowed. Carlsbad Caverns National Park is in the Mountain Time Zone.
Parking
A large lot is located at the visitor center, or if you’re hiking, park at the designated trailhead parking area.
Address
Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Carlsbad, NM 88220
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