Taum Sauk Mountain State Park is where you hike to the highest point in the state and highest wet weather waterfall and continue down to the rock formation of Devil’s Tollgate.
About Taum Sauk Mountain
Taum Sauk Mountain is 1,772 feet above sea level and is the epicenter of the St. Francois Mountains in Missouri.
Almost 1.5 billion years ago, volcanic eruptions of hot ash settled and cooled to form rhyolite. Erosion has left only the roots of these mountains behind, now filled with hickory forests and glades.
Driving Into the Park
We drove down Missouri Highway CC which ends at the park. To head to the highest point you drive down the gravel road. The paved road goes to Taum Sauk Lookout Tower, which was closed the day we were there.
Along the way, we came to a lookout. This one includes a sign that references towns, hills, and other sites you can see in the distance.
Highest Point Trail
It is a short ADA accessible and paved trail to the summit. Sadly, it is in trees. The nearby Mina Sauk trail offers much better mountain views.
I hiked this short trail earlier in the year with my son. We stood on a large rock by the stone designation and acted like we did an amazing climb. It was fun for a photo op. Here you will also find a mailbox listing others who have made it to this summit.
Mina Sauk Trail to Devil’s Tollgate
I hiked this trail on another day by myself since I was going beyond the Mina Sauk Trail loop down to the Devil’s Tollgate through rough terrain.
It is a three-mile loop trail and a section of it is part of the much longer Ozark Trail that connects to Johnson Shut-Ins State Park. I did the loop and also two miles out and back hike to the Devil’s Tollgate. I did a total of five miles of hiking with this addition.
Starting the Mina Sauk Trail
The trail starts paved as it heads towards the high point, then it branches off.
I went towards the right to follow the glade top section. This part of the trail allows for views of the surrounding mountains.
Walking here you will encounter lots of rocks in the pathway. Watch your step so you don’t trip.
Along the trail
After about a half mile I came to the first of many glades. Here you can see a rocky landscape with red and black volcanic boulders with green lichen growing on them.
I walked by more glades until almost a mile into the walk and I came across an open area with a view. I looked out and saw mountains spreading out in the distance. One had a large radio tower.
Seeing the Reservoir
Looking out I saw a concrete-walled structure. This is the Upper Taum Sauk Reservoir. This is the second one built here. The first one failed and water cascaded down it causing damage to the Johnson Shut-Ins State Park in 2005. A billion gallons of water were released in 12 minutes. The reservoir I saw now was constructed in 2010.
Coming to Mina Sauk Falls
I went down through more rhyolite fields and passing by large boulders.
I headed a bit downhill coming to the sign for part of the Ozark Trail that I would take down to the Devil’s Tollgate.
Mina Sauk Falls
About 100 feet away was Mina Sauk Falls. Legends say Mina Sauk, the daughter of Chief Taum Sauk, committed suicide at the waterfall when her people killed her lover from an enemy tribe.
This wet weather falls best seen during spring and fall drops 132 feet through a series of rocky ledges. It had been dry for a while so it was barely flowing the day I was there.
The black and grey lichen rocky terrain was worth stopping for anyway. In some places, small pools of water are filled with yellow and orange leaves. Evergreens reach for the sky among the dark rocks.
I stopped here taking in the mountain views, the hard rock terrain, and the small drips of water slowly cascading down.
Heading To Devil’s Tollgate
I walked down to the Ozark Trail and followed a green and white trail blaze with T in the middle – O T—Ozark Trail. The Mina Sauk Trail was blazed in orange.
This is the hardest section even going down. I had some trouble following the trail in here among the large boulders and rocks. Here you are following the waterfall through boulders so again be careful. Towards the bottom, I saw the trail go towards the left, and now I was on my way through the woods.
Along the Way
Look closely for the OT signs so you keep going the right way. The walk-through here is still rocky so watch your footing.
Along the way, you will pass campgrounds. This part of the Ozark Trail leads to Johnson Shut-Ins State Park to the Highway N trailhead for a distance of 13.9 miles. These campgrounds serve as stops for those wanting to stay the night out here.
I came to a rocky brook and crossed it and walked a short way coming to the Devil’s Tollgate.
Devil’s Tollgate
These are two large igneous rocks standing upright and there is an eight-foot gap between them.
A legend says that this route was once a military road and the only way to get through this gap was to unload and reload the wagon and this hassle becoming named Devil’s Tollgate.
Break on Top of Devil’s Toll Gate
This was where I had a snack break. I saw a small path to my left and scrambled up top of the left rock. Here I had some water and trail mix.
Walking Further
The valley I was in is the deepest one in Missouri measuring 1,000 feet from top to bottom. Along Taum Sauk Creek there are boulders, cliffs, and small pools of water. I walked down near one seeing small fish swim about.
Since I had the place to myself I wandered down the path taking in the area. I was thinking if I ever came this way again I might want to hike it down to Johnson Shut-Ins instead of having to head back and have a friend pick me up.
Missing the Trail
I walked towards the brook and missed the trail turn-off. I went straight following I guess was the long-ago wagon route. As the route petered out I realized my mistake and headed back across the brook seeing the stack of rocks showing the trail going to the right. I need to be more watchful in the future.
Once more I passed the camps, watching my footing since I was wearing down.
Heading Up
The hardest part of going back is going up along the falls. It was one thing going down, but heading up was a lot of work. This makes this two-mile addition a hard slog overall.
When I was back at where the Ozark Trail meets the Mina Sauk Trail I had to make a decision. I could go left and follow the Mina Sauk Trail or take the Ozark Trail branch of the loop.
Going Up Higher
I decided to keep going up and do the full loop.
I went back by the falls again and above it. It is pretty in here with the black and gray volcanic rock and the small creek pools in places.
Finally, I made it to the top and headed to the other side of the mountain.
Going Along the Creek
Here you follow a creek passing by more boulders and going through the forest.
Trail Sign
I came to a trail sign, which pointed the way to the parking lot where I parked at .5 miles. The Ozark Trail continues from here to Highway 21 at 4.3 miles.
Walk in the Woods
Now I headed through the woods to the parking lot.
Final Thoughts About Taum Sauk Mountain Hiking
I like the glade top Mina Sauk Trail and this was my favorite section of the day. The two miles out and back trip to Devil’s Tollgate is not easy. The tollgate is cool, but it is a tough hike, probably the hardest one I’ve done in Missouri. You can appreciate this being the deepest valley in the state!
DETAILS:
Drive: Take Interstate 55 south to exit 174B for US 67 south. Off US 67 take the exit for MO-221 W. Turn left onto MO- 21 and then right onto State Highway CC which ends at Taum Sauk Mountain State Park
Hours: Sunrise to Sunset with camping available
Address: Hwy. CC, Middle Brook, MO 63656
Other Nearby Hikes
Dad Hikes: Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park with its huge gray boulders and splashing water slide like rapids is a hiking and swimming destination.
Dad Hikes: Silver Mines
A mineshaft and a cascading river rushing through the remains of a stone cut dam are what await you at Silver Mines Recreation Area
Millstream Gardens
Majestic pines, huge rock boulders creating shut-ins, and rapids greet you at Millstream Gardens Conservation Area. In the spring when the water is high this area is known for its whitewater kayaking competitions.
