One Day at Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park features a canyon wall that resembles the U.S. Capitol, along with historic sites and home-made apple pie, and is located in Utah’s south-central desert.

The national park surrounds a long wrinkle in the earth known as the Waterpocket Fold, with layers of golden sandstone, canyons, and striking rock formations.

We visited this national park on our way back to Salt Lake City from Moab, Utah.

Drive to Capitol Reef National Park

If we had more time, we would have stopped at Goblin Valley State Park, which has sandstone structures shaped like goblins. The state park is about 30 minutes off Utah Highway 24 on the way to Capitol Reef State Park and 30 minutes back. Of course, if we stopped there, hiked, and then drove back, that would have been at least two hours of activity.

Kathline Rock

On the way to the national park, we stopped at the pull-out for Kathline Rock.

Named rock formations on the right side of the road by Kathline Rock.
Named rock formations on the right side of the road by Kathline Rock.

If you look out to the right, you can find named buttes such as Brigham Butte or Factory Butte. Then on the left side of the road is Kathline Rock.

My son standing outside Hollow Mountain Gas Station.
My son standing outside Hollow Mountain Gas Station.

Hollow Mountain Gas Station

We stopped in Hanksville at the Hollow Mountain Gas Station, a convenience store built right into the mountain. It’s a good place to grab restrooms, maps, or snacks before heading into the park.

Inside the cave-like convenience store
Inside the cave-like convenience store

Hours: 7 a.m. – 10 p.m., Friday-Wednesday; 8 a.m. – 9 p.m., Thursdays

Address: 40 N. Utah Highway 95, Hanksville, UT, 84734

My son posing with the national park sign.
My son posing with the national park sign.

Entering Capitol Reef National Park

Our first stop was to take a photo with the national park sign at Orientation Point.

Outside of Behunin Cabin
Outside of Behunin Cabin

Behunin Cabin

Next, we stopped at the pull-out for Behunin Cabin.

The Behunin Cabin can be seen from an unpaved, dirt parking lot off State Route 24, which is suitable for 2WD vehicles and RVs. There is limited parking for large vehicles.

Tabitha Jane and Elijah Cutler Behunin were two of the early settlers to file a homestead claim around the Fremont River and Sulphur Creek. Even at this time, the Latter-Day Saint pioneers recognized that this land was useful for “ordinary farming, [but] most valuable for fruit raising.”

Elijah and his family of 15 built this small sandstone cabin by the Fremont River in 1883, but they only stayed for about a year. Homesteading here was tough. Flash floods ruined their crops, and the cabin was so small that only Elijah, Tabitha Jane, and their youngest kids could sleep inside. The older boys slept in a sandstone alcove, and the older girls slept in a covered wagon box. My son was amazed that such a large family could live in this one room space.

Hickman Bridge Rim Overlook Trailhead
Hickman Bridge Rim Overlook Trailhead

Hickman Bridge Rim Overlook and Navajo Knobs

A trail here leads to the Hickman Natural Bridge. This difficult hike is a 1.7-mile out-and-back hike on a rocky natural surface with 416 feet of elevation gain.

Taking a short hike along the Fremont River.
Taking a short hike along the Fremont River.

We did not have time to do the hike, but we did a short hike along the rushing, filled Fremont River. Know the water is cold.

If you look up, you can see the Capitol Dome rock formation that the park is named after. (Main Blog Photo.)

Cliff faces surrounding the area.

Even though we didn’t go far, it was worth the stop to check out this scenic area. There are also restrooms here.

Informational sign on the petroglyphs
Informational sign on the petroglyphs

Petroglyphs

Next stop was the petroglyphs. The Fremont Culture petroglyphs along Utah State Route 24 are accessible by two wooden boardwalks.

Viewing the petroglyphs.
Viewing the petroglyphs.

The shorter boardwalk provides views of large, anthropomorphic (human-like) petroglyphs, bighorn sheep petroglyphs, and other animals and geometric designs. The longer boardwalk parallels the cliffs, and the petroglyphs along it are closer to the viewer but harder to see because of a patina that has developed over them.

The Fremont Culture lived in what is now Utah for about one thousand years, from 300 to 1300 Common Era (CE).

Address: Petroglyphs Panels, Utah Highway 24, Torrey, UT 84775

Outside of Fruita School
Outside of Fruita School

Fruita School

Classes had been conducted for two years before the Fruita Schoolhouse was built, when Elijah Cutler Behunin donated land for a school building in 1896. He and other early Junction (later called “Fruita”) settlers constructed the building. Even though only eight families lived in Junction, these farmers had large families.

The Behunins raised thirteen children themselves, one of whom, Nettie, became the first schoolteacher at age twelve. She taught children in the Behunin home before the schoolhouse was built. Nettie’s first class had 22 students, three of whom were her siblings.

Orchard by the school
Orchard by the school

Next to the school, you’ll find an orchard planted by local families.

Address: Fruita Schoolhouse, Utah Highway 24, Torrey, UT 84775

Visitor Center

Capitol Reef National Park Visitor Center

Next, we turned onto Camp Ground Road to stop at the visitor center.

The center interprets the park’s human history, diverse plant and animal life, and the iconic geology of the Waterpocket Fold. Through photographs and text, interactive features, and videos, visitors come away with a greater understanding of the significance of Capitol Reef National Park.

Hours: 8 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., Daily

Address: Capitol Reef National Park Visitor Center, Torrey, UT 84775

Picnic grounds parking is below the rock formations.
Picnic grounds parking is below the rock formations.

Picnic Grounds

Next, we stopped at the Picnic Grounds to have lunch. Nearby and walkable is the Gifford House and Museum Store, where you can purchase pies that are made from fruits from the orchards when in season.

Gifford House is where you can buy homemade apple pies.
Gifford House is where you can buy homemade apple pies.
Near the house is a horse stable.

Gifford House and Museum Store

The Capitol Reef Natural History Association, in cooperation with the National Park Service, has renovated and refurnished the Gifford farmhouse as a cultural demonstration site to interpret the early Mormon settlement of the Fruita valley. The house depicts the typical Spartan nature of rural Utah farm homes of the early 1900s. In addition to the farmhouse, the Gifford homestead includes a barn, smokehouse, garden, pasture, and rock walls.

The former kitchen (a non-historic addition to the original house) has been converted into a Natural History Association sales outlet. Items for sale include reproduction utensils and household tools used by Mormon pioneers in their daily tasks. These unique handmade items are made by local artisans and craftsmen and include such things as quilts, aprons, woven rugs, soap, crockery, candles, and toys. A wide selection of books, historic postcards, jams, jellies, and locally baked fruit pies and homemade ice cream are available.

Hours: The Gifford House is typically open from March 14 (Pi Day) to late November (closing dates and operating hours may vary).

Address: Gifford House & Museum Store, Scenic Dr, Torrey, UT 84775

Our Time Here

We were able to buy a pie that day, along with ice cream at the house. We had that with our lunch.

The above picture is the trailhead sign. Then we hiked along the fast-moving stream.
The above picture is the trailhead sign. Then we hiked along the fast-moving stream.

Near the store is the Fremont River Trail, which we walked a short way. You can take a longer walk on it to the Fremont River Trail Viewpoint.

Scenic Drive

If we had more time, we would have taken the drive down Scenic Drive, which leads to more scenic areas of the park south of the Gifford House and picnic grounds.

The main blog photo and this photo are views from Panorama Point.
The main blog photo and this photo are views from Panorama Point.

Panorama Point

We got back on Utah Highway 24 and headed west to stop at Panorama Point.

Panorama Point features sweeping views of huge sandstone cliffs. This vista is easy to access from HWY 24, just 2.5 miles (4km) west of the visitor center.

From the parking area, a very brief walk leads visitors to a 360-degree view.

You can enjoy the stunning views here any time, but the cliffs look especially colorful near sunset. At night, this spot is also great for stargazing.

Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock

Look across the road and you can see Chimney Rock.

Gravel road that leads to another overlook.
Gravel road that leads to another overlook.

NOTE: You can take this gravel road further down to Goosenecks Overlook and Sunset Point, which require some short hikes.

Address: Panorama Point, Panorama Point Dr, Torrey, UT 84775

Twin Rocks
Twin Rocks

Twin Rocks

Our last stop was at the Orientation Pullout right before you leave the national park. The rock outcropping here is called Twin Rocks.

DETAILS:

There are more hiking trails and off-road areas to explore in the park. The itinerary I have here is for one day with easy access to stops. Go to the park website for more information.

Admission: $20 – private vehicle; $35, Annual Park Pass; America the Beautiful Pass (Includes Senior Passes) FREE-$80 – NOTE: It is FREE to drive through the park on the main highway. Admission is for the Scenic Highway section or for hiking the trails.

Open Times

Capitol Reef is a 24-hour park, open all day, every day. The visitor center is open daily, except for some major holidays. Visitor center hours vary; call 435-425-3791 and follow the prompts for current visitor center information.

Weather

Capitol Reef National Park has an arid climate with precipitation averaging 7.91 inches (20.1 cm) annually at the park visitor center weather station. Much of the precipitation falls during the summer monsoon season, usually from July to September. During monsoon season, summer downpours can create dangerous flash floods, as well as beautiful ephemeral waterfalls. Always check the weather forecast before hiking in canyons during monsoon season. Flash flood watches and warnings for Capitol Reef and surrounding national parks are provided by the National Weather Service. Flash floods can be unpredictable, and your safety is your responsibility.

Directions

From I-70: Take exit 149, then take UT-24 west toward Hanksville; continue for 43.8 miles (70.5 km). Turn right to continue on UT-24 west and continue for 37.3 miles (60 km). From I-15: take exit 188, then US-50 east toward Scipio. Left on UT-50; continuing 0.7 miles (1.1 km). Turn right onto US-50 east; continue for 24.4 miles (39.3 km). Turn right onto UT-260 south and continue 4.2 miles (6.8 km), then right on UT-24 for 71.3 miles. UT-12: North on highway 12 to Torrey, UT. Right onto UT-24.

Address: (You will either enter the park from east of Torrey or west of Hanksville)

Driving back through the mountains
Driving back through the mountains

After Capitol Reef National Park

We continued on Utah Highway 24, stopping in Torrey for snacks. Then, I took Utah Highway 24 to U.S. Highway 50, then went north on U.S. Highway 50 to Interstate 15 to Salt Lake City.

Mountain view from our room at the Embassy Suites
Mountain view from our room at the Embassy Suites

Hotel Stay: Embassy Suites by Hilton Salt Lake West Valley City

We stayed the night at this hotel, not far from the airport. The hotel offers a pool, evening snacks with drinks, and a continental breakfast.

Address: 3524 Market St, West Valley City, UT 84119

Early morning at Great Salt Lake State Park
Early morning at Great Salt Lake State Park

Great Salt Lake State Park

Early in the morning, I took the 20-minute drive to the Great Salt Lake State Park to watch the sunrise over the lake. No one was interested in the drive, so I had a moment communing with nature.

Mountains to the south of the state park
Mountains to the south of the state park

I was alone as the sun rose in the distance. To the south are some mountains.

I walked down to the boat ramp to touch the water and felt a bit of bounce. You can easily float in the water since the salinity of the water averages about 12 percent, making it much saltier than the ocean.

If you want a moment alone looking out over a vast lake, then this is a worthy stop.

NOTE: Reviews state that bugs can sometimes be a problem, and that bird die-offs sometimes come to shore. The birds are pickled due to the salinity of the water. There can also be algae blooms. I found none of this, but I was there early in the morning, and bird die-offs happen more often in the spring. Camping is also available at the park.

Hours: The park is open from Dawn to 5 p.m. The Visitor Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. except on major holidays.

Admission: $10, which I put in an envelope at the way station in the park.

Address: 13312 W 1075 S, Magna, UT 84044

Great Saltair

Near the park entrance is The Great Saltair.

It is a concert venue built in the tradition of the old resorts that once stood here by the lake.

Address: 12408 W Saltair Dr, Magna, UT 84044

MORE UTAH NATIONAL PARKS TO EXPLORE

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One Day at Arches National Park

Arches National Park has over 2,000 natural stone arches, hundreds of soaring pinnacles, massive rock fins, and giant balanced rocks.

MORE NATIONAL PARKS WITH CANYONS

Badlands National Park: East Side Hiking

Badlands National Park has unusual rock formations and canyons with vibrant colors and plenty of hiking trails to explore.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park: South Unit

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